Inspired by spiders, one Japanese startup is inventing a new generation of textiles

Now, one Japanese startup, To resolve this, Spiber is developing a process called “biosphere circulation” that will convert discarded garments made from natural materials like cotton into the sugars needed for fermentation. Around 40 million metric tons of textile waste is produced every year and most of this goes to landfills or incinerators: keeping these textiles in the loop could create a more sustainable alternative, says Higashi.Global expansionSpiber isn’t the only company taking inspiration from arachnids. In 2016, Adidas incorporated AMSilk’s Biosteel fiber in a sneaker and in 2017, California textile innovator Bolt Threads unveiled its spider-silk-inspired thread, Microsilk, in a gold dress designed by Stella McCartney. In addition to its collaborations with The North Face Japan, Spiber’s Brewed Protein has been used by Japanese designer Yuima Nakazato for several of his collections, and streetwear brand Sacai for a limited-edition T-shirt range. Higashi says Spiber is exploring opportunities in the automotive industry, too. According to the company, Spiber has raised around ¥100 billion ($783 million) from investors including finance firms Carlyle and Mitsubishi UFJ Morgan Stanley Securities, along with grants from government organizations and startup development funds. This funding will allow the company to expand beyond its pilot plant in Yamagata — opening a small plant in Thailand later this year, and a larger facility in the US next year in a partnership with food processing multinational Archer Daniels Midland Company. Higashi says this will enable production of thousands of tons of Brewed Protein by the end of 2023. Higashi says scaling will help bring the price of Brewed Protein down and allow Spiber to expand beyond the high-end designer market.”We have the means to create solutions to enable more circular fashion,” says Higashi. “It’s our mission to bring those solutions to the world.”